Monday, July 16, 2012

Big City, Shrinking Self


Last week Andrew and I flew out west to explore national parks in Utah with my parents and siblings and then join my mom’s extended family in Colorado for a reunion. Late Sunday night we got back. I am always amazed at the change that comes with leaving the city and coming back.

We flew into Las Vegas and stayed just long enough to drive down the Strip and see the character and fundamental unprincipledness of luxury. (I had not thought about this since I read novels about ancient Rome.) From there we drove to the Hoover Dam and tried to stop our knees from shaking while gaping at the size and mass of the dam, and the intestinal fortitude of its builders.

In Utah we spent hours slogging upriver in a beautiful canyon at Zion National Park, leaning on walking sticks and climbing up the sandstone in places where it had been worn away. We ate late at the Mexican and Chinese restaurants in Hurricane, at that phase of exhaustion when everything satisfies. We watched the sun set and then rise at Dead Horse Point State Park, in vast and complete silence broken only by the wind. We drove through Canyonlands and Arches National Park and saw canyons within canyons, layers upon layers, red cliffs of sandstone, green hillsides of uranium oxide, and the most astonishing, fantastic, gigantic pillars and arches of rock you can imagine. I think Arches might be the most mysterious place on this continent. We camped in the desert, talked to rangers, stayed with a Westerner and his horse and dogs. I've never seen stars twinkle like they did over Hurricane.

In Colorado we watched the elevation numbers on the GPS escalate as we approached the Continental Divide. The family were delighted to hear everyone’s news, and large-group games kept us busy between mealtimes--where the cafeteria had the biggest drink selection I’ve yet enjoyed. On Sunday we spent a solid hour singing hymns in four-part harmony, in the proud, understated Mennonite tradition.

Coming back after that experience of awe and love brought my focus again to something I have not figured out about city life. People come to New York to find themselves, be free of small-town expectations and restrictions, and in some sense see the world. But whenever I come [back] to New York, I feel like I'm stepping into a box. For a few hours—a few days if I’m lucky—I approach people without preconceptions, as an individual. But the hackneyed truisms set in quickly: racial identities, neighborhood stereotypes, the New Yorker’s prying curiosity about everyone else’s income, white guilt, Midwestern insecurity. I start thinking like the New York Times, even though I’m both conservative and religious—thinking about people as categories rather than individuals with relationships. It desiccates my imagination, and I start filling up my schedule with weekend things to create islands of oasis or distraction from the isolation that surrounds my mind.

Why is it that in the city of tolerance I see only divisions? Why is it that close proximity to every stripe of humanity pushes me into isolation? Am I the only one who experiences this—my heart minimizing like a computer window when I come back to the city? What have others found to do about it?



This is what I think about when I return.